Bro-Pair Abroad

Bro-Pair Abroad

Sunday, September 29, 2013

September 29th: Oktoberfest

Hello, again!

So, it has been over a week since my last post. And I am sorry about that. But here we go!

The past week went pretty smoothly overall. I started driving Felix to and from school. I am getting over my fear of driving stick. I don't want to say I have mastered it, but I am not stalling at red lights, so that's good, right? Our car rides are usually silent because we can't really communicate to each other, so he just stares out the window and I focus on not hitting bikers and not missing shifts and whatnot.

Last Sunday, my host mom, Felix, and myself were riding our bikes through Ulm and we went to the old Fisherman's Quarters. The buildings were beautiful and there is a lot of history there. Including a hotel that was sinking for a long time, so it is slanted. Apparently all of the furniture in there was designed for the slope, so the legs are longer on one end to keep them level.

One of the neighbors is a former au pair of the family. His name is Micah and he's a couple of years older than me and he's a pretty nice guy. Micah helps deliver the magazines that the mom publishes. A couple of times this week, he invited me to tag along so we could chat and walk around the city. It was nice getting to talk with him and he pointed out a couple of things in the town. We also discussed some things regarding German culture that I have noticed. For example, in every building, the ground floor is usually labeled EG (basically "ground floor") and the next level is 1. Which may not seem odd, but that means that the first floor isn't "the first floor." Floor 1 would be the US Floor 2. Which Micah and I both found odd. We even talked about some English words and subtle variances that made him frustrated. For example, the word "queue." Which has more letters than it needs. And we discussed the slight differences between "belly," "belay," and "ballet." Which I never thought of, but it's pretty funny.

Friday night, I was hoping to go to a choir concert at the Munster. I went and the tickets were about 22 Euros. Soooo I decided I didn't want to pay that much for a choir that I know nothing about. I biked back home and my host mom was just leaving for a concert of Victor Jara music. So I tagged along. There was a long speech about Victor Jara before the show...in German. The music was pretty good. My host mom's friend was playing in the band.

Then, Oktoberfest. My host dad warned me a week ago that I picked the busiest day of Oktoberfest to go. But if I am going to go once, I figured it should be the biggest day. I jumped on my bike and rode on down to the train station. I bought myself a Bayern ticket (good for unlimited travel on regional trains for one day in Bavaria) for 22 Euros and waited at the station. When the train showed up, it was fairly full. I had to stand, but I had something to lean on, so I wasn't upset. Then as we stopped at more and more stations on the way to Munich, more and more people got on. Eventually, people had to wait for the next train because it was too full. It wasn't too crowded, though. I wasn't shoulder-to-shoulder with people.

After a little over 2 hours, I arrived at the Munich Hbf (Hbf basically means the main train station) and people poured out of the train and into the already crowded station. I did not actually know where Oktoberfest was specifically, but I was told it was about 15 minutes walking from the train station. And instead of asking for directions, I did what any reason tourist would do: follow the Lederhosen. So I did. The streets were pretty crowded and there were people everywhere. But, the crowd took me right to Oktoberfest (after a good walk on Beethoven Street).

Oktoberfest is, basically, a giant carnival. The main focus is, of course, beer and food, but there were tons of carnival rides and things to see and do. There were even a couple of rollercoasters. As I wondered around through the thick crowd, I got run in to be a couple of stumbling drunks. Because, you know, it was 2:30 PM. I grabbed myself a massive pretzel and continued walking.

At Oktoberfest, there are these massive "tents" (they're more like buildings, really) that people can go inside and drink and listen to music and do...Oktoberfest stuff. Despite the size of these tents, there were still masses of people crowded at the entrances waiting to go in. I wanted to go in one just to see it, but I recognized that I did not have the patience to stand in a mass of people for hours just to go inside. So I kept walking. I eventually found another huge tent that had an outside porch-like area. And amazingly, I found a short line and got right in.

It was packed and there was loud music and people drinking the same beer (they usually only serve one kind of beer at a tent) and people having a good time. Within maybe 90 seconds, I was asked by a waitress if I wanted a beer. I paused for a moment, then said yes. It was 7.50 Euros (which is a little steep, but I heard inside the tent they can be as much as 12 Euros), but it was a small price to pay for a beer at Oktoberfest. I walked through the crowd and two middle-aged men held out their beers to me for a toast. We clinked glasses and gave a little cheer and drank. We talked for a little bit and they told me they were from Italy. The conversation was kind of short because I wanted to go on exploring and the language barrier probably could not have handled more, but they were fun guys.

After more wandering, I found myself by a table of drunk Italians dancing on their table. They were clearly having a blast. It was about this time that "YMCA" came on and just about EVERYONE sang the chorus with the arm-ography. After the song ended, I heard someone behind me say to a waitress, "I don't know how you can put up with this." I turned around because I heard some English. There were two people a couple of years older than me buying a beer from a waitress. I said hello and heard them speaking English, so I had to talk to them.

I came to find out that their names are Dave and Bridget. They are from South Africa and both just graduated from law school and are staying in Europe for a little bit. Dave was a little harder to understand because he was a little tipsy and had a stronger accent, but we did fine. I stuck with them and we talked and sang and hung out for a couple of hours. They were quite fun and we had some good laughs. I thought they were a couple at first, but I was wrong. I figured it out when Dave announced he was on the hunt for "this one hot Brazilian chick."

Note: The music at the porch was live music from inside being projected through speakers. The music didn't really make sense together. They played a couple of German songs, YMCA, an instrumental version of Amazing Grace, Proud Mary, and a little AC/DC. It was confusing to say the least.

After a few hours, they left because they had been there since WELL before I got there. We hugged and said goodbye and they vanished into the crowd. I decided I had had enough for the porch and left shortly after. I swung by a stand and bought Bratwurst and went on my way exploring the sights of Oktoberfest. While I was walking and eating, I saw two police cars with their lights and sirens on driving through the crowd (slowly, of course) to a beer tent. And I saw a couple paramedics a few minutes earlier with a woman on a stretcher. Some people just party a little harder than me, I guess. I am also sure I saw a fist fight in a "line" for a beer tent.

After a little more wandering, I decided to call it an evening. I had some German food, drank my beer, met some people, had a good laugh, and thought I did a good job at Oktoberfest. On my way back to the Hbf, I took a few pictures of some pretty buildings and such. I wasn't in a huge rush to get back to the station. I wanted to get there early, though, so that I could hopefully grab a seat inside of having to stand. I got to the platform before the train and waited. And as soon as the train got there, I hopped on and grabbed a seat. The train quickly filled up and within about 10 minutes, we left the station.

After a short time, an announcement came on. I ignored it because it was in German. Then, the same message again came on in English. The announcement said that the train would be splitting at Augsburg Hbf. The front part would be going to Ulm and the back part would be going somewhere else and the final destination was displayed in each car on the screens they have around telling you what station you are approaching. I was, of course, in the very last car. So at the next station, I got out and ran a few cars down. We went on and the screen said a third town they did not mention in the announcement. So at the next station, I ran down some more cars. The door opened and there was a man there who held up his hand and said something in German. I was in a hurry, so I just yelled, "I don't speak German!" and jumped on the train. I later found out he was kidding and was just telling me not to get on because it's loud. This is because there were four drunk, German kids (probably college-aged) who were loudly singing and chanting various songs. It was a lot of fun, though. They were having a blast and most of the people around them didn't seem to mind.

Soon, however, the train became intensely crowded. I was basically forced up against the doors. It soon got very hot and even more cramped (some guy even had his bike on the train). However, when some people got off, I got a little more comfortable. One of the drunk German singers heard me say to someone in English, "I don't speak German," and spoke to me in English. He apparently spent a couple of months in California. We spoke for a little bit before I heard some more English behind me. It ended up being a tall, British college student. He and I spoke for quite a bit about our experiences in Germany and talking about differences between our countries and stuff. He was with one of his classmates who was an exchange student from Russia. The three of us had a nice conversation about culture and this-and-that. At one point, the British kid even turned to his Russian friend and says, "Hey, how is Snowden doing, by the way?" It was a good time. My station was before theirs and I said my farewell to them and the drunk German singers and hopped off the train, grabbed my bike, and went on home.

And now, pictures!!

The Fishermen's Quarter




On an old wall that used to surround the city.

Some modern boats designed to look like old boats. And filled with water, apparently. 
(Taken from the wall)

No idea what this is. But I saw it while riding my bike and liked it.

I rode by a KFC and had to try it. So far, this is the only place I have seen in Germany
that has unlimited refills on fountain drinks. Keeping true to the Kentucky roots.
Note: I got the "Extra Hot Salsa" dipping sauce. The Germans don't seem to know what spicy is.

For my friends that like this kind of stuff, I had a reallllly good smoothie in Ulm.
And as you can see, all of the furniture and whatnot is really bright.

Me on the crowded train to Munich.

Another shot of the train.

My first vision of Oktoberfest.

Huge pretzel. It was pretty good.

A mob trying to get into that beer "tent." This is where I saw a potential fist fight.

My beer on the patio. It wasn't terrible, I have to admit. I even drank the whole thing.

The Italians who clinked my glass.

A shot of the mayhem (with a Fraulein selling pretzels).

Dave and Bridget.

Dave insisted I get a picture of me and the beer so people would believe me.
Although I had a beer in the other picture...

Rollercoaster/Olympic Rings.

It was pretty crowded. You had to walk slowly and occasionally avoid broken glass.

Just some buildings on the way back to the Hbf.






The Munich Hbf while waiting for my train back to Ulm.

That's all for this post! I will try to post a blog twice a week instead of just once. I prefer that method more, honestly. And maybe you do, too? I don't know.

This upcoming Saturday, I will be making the trek to Freiburg! It will be a much more calm day (I hope) and will hopefully produce many pictures of beautiful sights.

Thanks for reading! 

"For a quart of Ale is a meal for a King." - William Shakespeare 


Saturday, September 21, 2013

September 21st: A Day in the City

Hello!

I am very happy to receive nice feedback from everyone about my blog. I'm glad you enjoy reading it--I enjoy writing it.

I have the weekends off (except for one weekend every two months in which I have to babysit while the parents work on finishing their magazine), so almost all of my travel and sightseeing will be on Saturdays. This Saturday I decided to stay local: to downtown Ulm.

A couple of posts ago, I went to downtown Ulm for Kulturnacht and took a few pictures, but not many. This time, I jumped on my trusty steed (a bicycle) and rode into town by myself for a day of food, walking, climbing, and many, many pictures. Many of the pictures are from that massive church (Ulmer Munster) I talked about. Because this time I went inside, listened to some organ music and a hymn, took lots of pictures and then did the unthinkable...ascended the 700+ stairs to the top of the steeple.

Now will be a good time to mention my little fear of heights.

Before I went inside, I sat down on a bench near the shopping street and drank a Mezzo Mix while people watching and listening to music. Mezzo Mix is a Coke and Fanta mix. It is actually pretty good (even though German Fanta is MUCH worse than American Fanta). I roamed the streets little bit looking for food that seemed German. And lo, I found it in the form of a stand called "Grill Meister" (Grill Master in English). I did my best attempt at ordering. But as soon as I told the woman what I wanted, there was apparently another option: an option I was not prepared for. After the initial shock, a moment passed of me thinking and trying to decode what she asked me. The man behind me saw my confusion and said, "chicken or pork?" My God, it was so simple. After my answer, I enjoy a Schnitzelsanwich (chicken) and headed towards the church.

Mezzo Mix on a bench. I won't apologize for my pro finger placement in the bottom right.

My trusty steed. Europeans ride with the seats pretty high...


I forgot to take a picture before I started eating, but you get the idea.

As I walked into the church, I was simply blown away. I won't talk about the interior because, frankly, architecture isn't my forte. And the pictures will speak for themselves. And there are many.

There were many stained glass windows, I just took one, though. (Sorry, Scott.)

The view when you first walk in.

Replica of the church.


Some nice pillars with the light from the stained glass windows.


The main area. No big deal.


The ceiling.

Dat organ.

A little blurry, but you get the idea. There seemed to be some sort of small service going on behind that altar, but it was roped off.


Taken from the front.

You could pay 50 Euro cents to light a candle and place it in the sand. 
The one in the middle is mine.


There was another one of these.

Went up a little bit to some sort of pulpit overlooking the pews.

Not uhh...not sure what these are.

And, as I mentioned before, I made the trek up the steeple. The sign at the bottom said 768 steps/marches. It felt like more, but I trust them. There were several levels and when you thought you reached the top, there was another staircase waiting for you. I wanted to get a picture of the staircase, but it was so narrow and tight, that the picture wouldn't have done it justice. There were times when there were two separate staircases (one up, one down), but sometimes there was only one. And when people ran into each other, there was usually a hardy chuckle and some squeezing by.

At the very beginning. Taken from a window on the staircase.

This picture and the next one were taken from what I originally thought was the highest point you could climb. But I was very wrong. We'll call this Site A.

Site A.

You can look in a tiny hole (covered with glass) down on the church bells.

The aforementioned holes are located on that...thing. This was a little rest area with some benches. Here, I met some German students from Stuttgart traveling with some exchange students from Singapore. We had a little talk and then became climbing buddies to the top.

Taken from what I thought was the highest point...again. We'll call this Site B.

Site B. You could sit on a tiered portion of the roof (forgot to take a picture of it specifically) and could look out. As you can see, that couple wisely brought some drinks and snacks. The spire in the photo was the FINAL staircase to the tippy-top.

Site B.

Site B.

Site B.

Site B.

Shameless selfie at Site B.

The only photo from Site C, the very top. I would have taken more, but the walkway was so narrow that it was filled with people shoulder-to-shoulder--none of whom were moving. This then caused a traffic jam on the narrow staircase. I quickly snapped a picture from the staircase and went down. I didn't feel like waiting a long time to be uncomfortable and shoved around (compounded with my fear of heights).

Just a photo I snapped through a window on the way down to Earth.

And now for some random pictures I took while wandering around that I thought I would share. These are not all of the pictures, just a selection. I didn't want to make the post THAT long and uploading some of these photos can take awhile.
From what I've been told, this fountain used to be used by fishermen who would catch fish in the Donau and would store them here. People would then buy them from the fountain. 
Note: this fountain is about 300 years older than the USA.

Just one side of the Ulm city hall. Every side looks like this.

You might be thinking "Sean, why did you take a picture of some bricks?" Let me tell you why. 
These bricks outline the house where Albert Einstein was born. The building was destroyed many years ago, but they decided to let people know using the red bricks.

Alas, only a small portion of these bricks are visible. The other bricks are being covered....by construction. (A new shopping center, I believe.)

Just a little alley.

No idea what this building is, but I liked it.

Panoramic shot of part of Munster Square.

Yes, I decided to pop in to a small (very small) pub and buy a beer. For those of you who do not know, I despise beer. But I thought I would try it. It was......bad.

And on my way home, I rode my bike on the Donau. Decided to stop for another shameless selfie.

And that about covers it for my "trip" to Ulm. I spent a little over 6 hours there and had a pretty good time. As I said in my previous post (I think it was the previous one...), I was going to develop a to-do/see list. And for the next few weekends, I have a plan!

Next week, Sept. 28: Munich for Oktoberfest. I plan to be as touristy and American as I can. And yes, I will drink another beer. It's Oktoberfest, afterall.

The following week, Oct. 5: I will jump on a train to Freiburg. My friend Eric was there for a little bit for a writing camp and told me it was really pretty. I figured I would check it out for myself. My host dad also told me that Ulm to Freiburg is considered one of the most beautiful train rides in Germany. Score.

Fast forward a little bit to the weekends of Oct. 19: The plan is tentative, but we are hoping to make it happen. The Becky Payne will hopefully be making the trek from Paris to Ulm. From there, we will continue on to Fussen to see the gorgeous Neuschwanstein Castle. It is her birthday weekend, after all, so that will be a wonderful way to spend it, if I do say so myself.

Thank you for reading! I know this post was especially long. But, I hope you enjoyed!

"A great city is not to be confounded with a populous one." - Aristotle